What Remotes I Use for Product and Self‑Portrait Photography (Phone Apps, IR, Bluetooth, and Tethering)
Remote or tethered shooting can save your sanity when you’re working solo, shooting products, or trying to nail a clean self‑portrait. In this guide, I am breaking down the remotes and methods I use, what actually works in real life, and how to avoid the most common pitfalls, like focus lock mishaps or IR signals getting blocked. You will see what I reach for first, what I avoid outdoors, and how to get reliable results without blowing your budget.
Phone Apps for Remote Shooting
Many newer cameras can connect to your phone through their own app. It’s not always pretty, and some apps are clunky, but they get the job done when you need control and a bigger preview of your scene.
A nice perk, your phone is already on you. If you are shooting branding content of yourself, it can even live in the frame as a natural prop. For product sessions or distance setups, like across a parking garage, seeing yourself or your set on a bigger screen helps you fine tune the pose and composition before you hit the shutter.
If your camera supports a companion app, you do not have to buy anything else. That alone makes this option a solid starting point.
How Phone Apps Work with Cameras
Setup is simple in most cases. Pair your camera with the phone app, then use the app to preview and trigger the shot. Each app has its own quirks, so you will need to learn how yours behaves. Once you learn its little love language, it becomes second nature.
Being able to see yourself up close on your phone is huge when the camera is far away. If the phone is not part of the shot, plan a place to stash it. I will tuck it into a pocket, set it on a stool, or hide it behind a prop within reach.
Pros of Using Phone Apps
Always with you, so no extra gear to pack.
Great for business content when the phone fits as a prop.
Works with newer cameras without buying anything else.
Lets you see the shot up close for better framing and posing.
Cons of Using Phone Apps
Apps can feel clunky and a bit frustrating.
Sometimes they disconnect for no reason, which leads to random disconnects mid shoot.
Every app behaves a little differently, so there is a learning curve.
Physical Remotes for Cameras
Physical remotes are small, simple, and focused on one job, which makes them a favorite for many. You will see a lot of options. The two main types you will run into are infrared and Bluetooth.
You do not need fancy features for most sessions. A reliable trigger is often enough. If you want extras, like switching drive modes or more complex controls, those exist too. Match the remote to your camera’s compatibility first, then think about where you will use it and how far you will be from the camera.
Infrared (IR) Remotes
IR remotes work like old TV remotes. They need line of sight to the sensor on the camera body (if applicable). I used one with a camera that did not support Bluetooth, and it was handy for indoor self‑portraits and simple setups.
Pros: no pairing or Bluetooth headaches, and no need to worry about wireless settings.
Cons: outdoors can be rough, especially during golden hour, and long distances are unreliable. Big lenses can block the IR sensor too. With a chunky 85 mm, I often played the “where is it” game, trying to aim the remote so the camera could see it.
Troubleshooting tips for IR:
Make sure you can see the camera’s IR sensor from where you are standing.
Step closer if the trigger becomes unreliable at longer distances.
Avoid strong sun hitting the front of the camera during golden hour.
If you are using a large lens, shift your body position so the lens is not blocking the sensor.
Keep spare batteries if your IR remote uses coin cells, and swap them if response slows.
My IR remote gave me a terrible time during this golden hour desert self portrait.
Bluetooth Remotes
Bluetooth remotes do not need line of sight. They pair to your camera, and most of the time once they’re connected, they just work. The one I use has stayed always connected with great battery life. I have not had to change the battery yet.
Pros: you can hide the remote in your pocket, trigger the shutter without aiming at the camera, and skip countdowns. It works through obstacles and body positioning. Cons: you still need to match the remote to your camera model or brand, so check compatibility before you buy.
Compared to IR, Bluetooth is my go‑to now. It is reliable in more places, indoors or outdoors, and frees me from thinking about where the sensor is.
Choosing the Right Remote
Your choice depends on your camera and your workflow. Do a bit of research for yourself before ordering one.
Basic models: simple shutter triggering without extra controls.
More advanced: may include half‑press focus control or other functions.
If you rely on your phone as your camera for self‑portraits, those tiny Bluetooth phone clickers can help too. They pair to your phone and trigger the camera app, which keeps your setup portable and discreet.
Tethering to a Computer
When you need full control, or you want to see details at actual size, tethering to a computer is a strong option. I connect the camera with a cable, open the software I prefer, and shoot while watching the images appear on screen. For product work, like jewelry or anything with fine texture, this is a big win because you can review proper focus and styling right away.
Tethering also helps you keep a session organized, since images land directly in a folder or catalog. Depending on what software you use, you can even get some automatic editing started as well! If you’re working with a client on set, they can view the results as you shoot, which speeds up feedback and keeps everyone on the same page.
Setting Up Tethered Shooting
Plug the camera into your computer with the right cable, then start the tethering software. Your camera might also have a pop up setting box as well. You can shoot and review without touching the camera. Which is needed when you’re hoisting your camera up. You’ll see the image at full resolution and can catch tiny issues before they cost you time later in post or reshoots.
Software Options for Tethering
Camera Manufacturer Software: Free options are available, like Sony’s Imaging Edge. It shares the same name as the phone app. I have used it with no major issues, but it’s generally disliked because it’s a bit clunky and quirky. So check if your camera company has its own tethering software.
Capture One: A popular paid tool for tethered sessions. It is common in studio work.
Lightroom: Tethering can work, but it is more particular about supported camera models. Check compatibility before you rely on it.
Other Tools: There are additional niche tools out there and Tether Tools has a list here.
Timer and Interval Shooting Methods
If you have no remote, your camera’s built‑in timer is better than nothing, but it comes with a catch. When you hit the shutter and start the countdown, the camera usually locks focus at that exact moment. If you are not in the frame yet, it will likely focus on whatever is behind you, like the flowers or the wall. You will step into a perfectly composed but slightly blurry photo of you.
Interval timers are a similar option, but that keep shooting. Some camera models have an interval shooting mode. You set how many shots you want and the time between them. Hit the shutter once and it keeps firing. This is helpful when you are in a group and want a natural series instead of one rushed frame. I’ve used this option for my own extended family photos that I also had to be included in.
Using the Camera’s Built‑in Timer
You can still make the timer work if you are careful.
Watch for Focus Lock. The moment you press the shutter and start the countdown, focus is set.
If you plan to use it for a self‑portrait, get into your exact position first, then trigger the shot with a remote or reach the button without moving out of the focal plane.
If you are not using a remote, lock focus on a stand‑in where your face will be, like a light stand, chair, or teddy bear, then replace that stand in near perfectly if you’re working with a shallow depth of field.
Steps to avoid misfocus:
Frame the scene with a stand‑in where your head will be.
Start the timer, knowing focus is locked on that stand‑in.
Slide into position without moving closer or farther from the camera.
This is best for intentional, static shots where you know you will hold still. Or embrace the out-of-focus idea and go for a blurry twirling photo.
Interval Timer for Multiple Shots
If you need a series, like family photos with you in the frame, interval shooting is a lifesaver. Set the number of shots and the interval, for example, one frame every 5 seconds for however many you need. Press the shutter once and it keeps going, which lets everyone relax and interact while the camera handles the cadence.
Basic setup:
Choose the interval time between shots.
Set the total number of images to capture.
Practical Tips That Make All of This Easier
Test your setup before you start. Fire a few frames, check focus, and make sure the remote triggers every time.
If your IR remote struggles outdoors, move closer and aim directly at the sensor on the camera body.
With Bluetooth remotes, stash the remote in your pocket or find a quick and out-of-frame place to throw it so your hands stay free.
If the phone app disconnects, close and reopen the app, or toggle Bluetooth and Wi‑Fi on your phone.
If you are using a timer, plan your head position first. Keep your face in the same plane as when focus locked.
When to Use What
A simple way to decide:
Use the phone app when you want a live preview and you do not mind the occasional hiccup.
Use an IR remote if your camera does not support Bluetooth and you are shooting primarily indoors.
Use a Bluetooth remote for most solo work where you want reliability and freedom to move.
Use tethering when detail matters and you want to review at full resolution on a larger screen, also ideal for when your camera setup is a bit complicated to reach/view.
Use the timer only when you can control focus or hold very still.
Use the interval timer when you want a series, especially with groups.
Conclusion
You have plenty of ways to trigger the camera without touching it, and each one shines in different scenarios. For everyday solo work, a Bluetooth remote keeps things smooth. For product detail, tethering pays off by letting you inspect every pixel. Phone apps are perfect in a pinch or when the phone fits the story of your photo. Timers still have a place, as long as you watch for focus lock. Try one method on your next shoot and see how it changes your flow. Which approach are you reaching for first?
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